Epic Rides: Spine of the Andes

The Andes run like a scar down the length of South America — 7,000 kilometers of mountain, ice, desert, jungle, and wind. To ride them is not just to travel. It is to submit. To give yourself over to a road that does not want you, that does not care for your schedule, your fuel stops, or your need for comfort. The Andes are older than any plan you can make. They break engines, strip lungs, bend wills. And they reward you with landscapes so raw you forget language.

Ashish Bahl

9/11/20255 min read

a black and white photo of a person riding a motorcycle
a black and white photo of a person riding a motorcycle

Epic Rides: Spine of the Andes

Riding the edge of the world, where air thins and horizons expand.

Opening Manifesto

Some roads are journeys. This one is an exorcism.

The Andes run like a scar down the length of South America — 7,000 kilometers of mountain, ice, desert, jungle, and wind. To ride them is not just to travel. It is to submit. To give yourself over to a road that does not want you, that does not care for your schedule, your fuel stops, or your need for comfort.

The Andes are older than any plan you can make. They break engines, strip lungs, bend wills. And they reward you with landscapes so raw you forget language.

To ride the spine of the Andes is to learn how small, stubborn, and alive you really are.

The Call of the Place

From Venezuela to Patagonia, the Andes split a continent. They cut through equator and desert, through salt flats and glaciers. They make their own weather, their own rules, their own silence.

And for riders, they are the ultimate corridor.

Here you find routes stitched from colonial trails, dirt tracks, and modern highways. You climb passes where oxygen falls away, descend into valleys where condors circle overhead. You ride through cultures that change every hundred kilometers: Quechua villages, mining towns, colonial plazas, windswept estancias.

The Andes call not because they are convenient. They call because they are unforgiving.

The Journey In

Every rider has their own entry.

Some begin in Colombia, winding through coffee country, where the air smells of roasted beans and wet earth. Others drop into Peru, where the road rises into switchbacks that seem carved by gods, not engineers. In Bolivia, you face the altiplano — flat, endless, brutal in its wind. Chile offers deserts that burn by day and freeze by night. Argentina gives you Patagonia, where the road itself feels like exile.

Wherever you start, the Andes strip you down.

At 4,000 meters, your engine gasps. So do your lungs. You learn to stop often, to drink water, to chew coca leaves when locals offer them. You learn that “paved road” is not a promise but a suggestion. Landslides happen. Rivers cross highways. Bridges collapse.

And in between, there are moments that stop you cold:

  • A herd of llamas crossing in silence, their breath steaming in morning frost.

  • A woman selling roasted corn on a mountain bend, smiling as trucks thunder past.

  • A condor rising from a cliff, wings wider than you are tall.

The Pause — Life on the Road

On the spine of the Andes, pause is not optional. It is forced.

Engines overheat. Riders tire. Weather turns. You stop in villages where time runs slower, where the plaza is the only stage and the church bells the only clock.

You share meals with strangers: soup thick with potatoes, quinoa, goat stewed until tender. You drink chicha poured from clay jars, fermented corn sweet and rough at once. In the south, you eat lamb grilled over open fire, fat dripping into coals.

At night, you find shelter: sometimes a hostel with peeling paint, sometimes a farmer’s spare bed, sometimes a tent pitched in wind so loud you cannot sleep.

And always the mountains watch. Silent, immovable, indifferent.

Echoes of History

The Andes have always been a road. Long before asphalt, they were crossed by the Qhapaq Ñan, the Incan road system — stone-paved paths spanning thousands of kilometers. Messengers ran these trails barefoot, carrying knots of quipu string as records, faster than horses. Empires rose and fell on the endurance of those who walked.

Spanish conquistadors forced their own routes, carving out mining towns, hauling silver from Potosí to ships waiting at the coast. The same paths now carry trucks and riders, but the rhythm remains ancient: climb, descend, endure.

To ride here is to ride with ghosts: Incas, traders, rebels, missionaries. Their footsteps are layered beneath your tires.

Storms and Breakdowns

In the Andes, weather is less condition than character.

One night in Bolivia, lightning split the sky and rain hammered so hard the road became a river. My bike stalled. I stood by it, soaked, watching headlights vanish in curtains of water. A truck finally stopped. The driver climbed out, laughed, and helped push the bike into his flatbed. He didn’t ask for payment. He simply shrugged and said, “Mañana siempre llega.” Tomorrow always arrives.

Another time in Chile, the wind was so fierce it shoved me across lanes. I camped behind a rock outcrop, tent flapping like it wanted to leave without me. I slept little, but when dawn came, the sky was the cleanest blue I had ever seen. That is how the Andes work: punishment, then absolution.

What the Place Leaves Behind

The Andes don’t leave you with comfort. They leave you with scars.

You remember the altitude headache that would not fade. The rain that soaked through three layers. The road that vanished into a landslide. The fear when fuel ran low and the next town was nowhere in sight.

But you also remember the triumph: the moment you crested a 5,000-meter pass and looked down at glaciers gleaming in moonlight. The laughter with strangers who fixed your bike with wire and hope. The sunrise over a valley so wide you could not measure it.

The Andes leave you with humility. With proof that endurance is not about speed, but about patience. With the knowledge that you can be afraid and still keep riding.

Unfoundnuma Recommends

  • Stay — Don’t cling to hotels in capital cities. Stay in small guesthouses in Andean villages. Let yourself wake to roosters and smoke from wood stoves. In Patagonia, try estancias — sheep farms where hospitality is as stark as the land.

  • Food — Eat what the road offers. Corn roasted on a roadside. Quinoa soup steaming at altitude. Trout fresh from Andean rivers. Empanadas greasy and perfect.

  • Music — Charangos strummed by kids in plazas, panpipes carried by wind, drums echoing during festivals. Sometimes the best music is the silence between mountains.

  • Pastimes — Stop for markets: woven textiles, alpaca wool, silver hammered by hand. Watch football played on dirt fields at 3,500 meters. Sit and let your lungs catch up to your body.

  • Encounters — A mechanic in Peru who fixes your carburetor with wire. A family in Bolivia who insists you share soup before riding on. A rider from somewhere else, equally lost, equally stubborn.

Unfoundnuma Details

  • Getting There — Ship your bike to Cartagena or Buenos Aires, or rent locally. The road is not picky. It will break whatever you bring.

  • The Cost — Gas, food, bribes at checkpoints. The true cost is fatigue. Days blur. Distances deceive.

  • Local Friends — Farmers who wave as you pass, children who run beside you, riders who share routes scrawled in notebooks.

  • How It Feels — Like riding the edge of the world, with no guarantee of arrival.

  • Truth of the Journey — You don’t ride the Andes to conquer them. You ride to be reminded that you cannot.

Essentials

  • Best time — Depends on latitude. In the north, dry season (May–Sept). In Patagonia, ride only in summer or be swallowed by storms.

  • What to bring — Layers for every season. Tools for breakdowns. A patience for detours.

  • How to move — Slowly. Respect altitude. Respect weather. Respect the road.

Unfoundnuma Speaks

The Andes are not romantic. They are raw.

They will break you if you come unprepared. They will humble you even if you are. And that is their gift. They teach that epic is not about glory but about endurance.

Most roads are measured in miles. The Andes are measured in lungs, in scars, in nights where you thought you would not make it and mornings where you did.

Riding the spine of the Andes is not about finishing. It is about being unfinished. About letting the road keep part of you. About learning that the world is larger than your need to master it.

And when you leave, if you leave, you carry a silence with you — the silence of mountains that watched and did not move.

That silence will not fade. It will live in your chest, reminding you that there are roads you do not own, only borrow.